Friday, June 11, 2010

5/25/2010 – Day Eight of England Tour: Guy Fawkes and the Round Table

America should take a leaf out of England’s book and

Remember, remember the fifth of November,

Not just by watching V for Vendetta

But by naming inns after Guy Fawkes,

Like 25 High Petergate in York,

The birthplace of the gunpowder plot conspirator

In 1570, thirty-six years to execution—

Hung, drawn and quartered

In 1606, the thirty-first of January—

Would the rest of the world know his name

If it wasn’t for Alan Moore

And his comic book hero with the Guy Fawkes mask?


Even the atheist in me can appreciate

High ceilings and stained-glass windows

And enviable architectural skills

In an ancient cathedral;

The cosmopolitan in me appreciates the brochures

In French, German, Japanese, Chinese,

Italian, Finnish, Russian—

America should take a leaf out of England’s book

And not shy away from diversity;

Quit whining about having to dial 1 for English

And expand your worldview to include

The rest of the globe.


This is the most claustrophobic tea house

I have ever shared a table with four people in.

We are as cramped for space as London’s streets.

Let’s move in close like we’re in a group hug

But we’re really claiming space like armrests on an airplane.

Moving our feet a quarter of an inch

Counts as playing footsie.

Lucky our laps have room for our teacups

When the sandwiches arrive.

Call us the knights they managed to squeeze into

The Round Table.


What have I learned today?

When public restrooms don't work,

They are out of action, not out of order.

And of course, admission to them isn't free,

But then again, what is?

Wednesday, June 9, 2010

5/24/2010 – Day Seven of England Tour: Don’t Tame the Shrew – Let her Speak.

If the world is a stage and we are all players,

Our rapport with the sport of life

Is enhanced with travel and exploration

Of history embodied in picturesque houses

Out of Disney’s Sleeping Beauty

With luxurious gardens that scare away crows

With hanging potatoes stuck with feathers—

Better than a scarecrow without a brain, huh?

“Make me a willow cabin at your gate

And call upon my soul within the house,

Write loyal cantons of contemned love,

And sing them loud even in the dead of night.”

So says Olivia in her disguise as Cesario,

Words she delivers to the apple of her love’s eye,

Lamenting her own unrequited affections.

Willows, a symbol of grief and loss,

Gave retreats in cabins,

And in the backyard of Shakespeare’s wife

Is where it stands, where the woman so disparaged by scholars

As the shrew and seductress of a juvenile Will,

Though little is known about her life,

And speculators pounce like British tabloids.

Germaine Greer was civil enough to do her justice,

With research into her background

And a novel in her honor, entitled Shakespeare’s Wife.

There’s plenty written about the man himself—

Now what about his lady?

Who would King Arthur be without Guinevere,

Robin Hood without Maid Marian?

Let Anne Hathaway have her say with the marriage counselor—

Infidelity, irreconcilable differences, whatever it may be.


These days were have our big screens, our widescreens,

Our high-definition TV sets with TiVo,

In our living rooms for the world to see

And think highly of us.

In Shakespeare’s time, it was beds.

Sleeping on the floor was commonplace—

Beds were a luxury, the status symbol,

And not at all unusual to be placed in the kitchen,

For guests to marvel at like a museum piece,

Or a sport’s car invoking neighbors’ envy.

Makes you think, doesn’t it,

Of how far we’ve come,

And how much we take for granted.


Watching Shakespeare in a British theatre

Feels more authentic than in America.

Here is Shakespeare’s work in Shakespeare’s country,

Like the musical Matilda, playing in November,

Based on a book of the great Roald Dahl,

The British genius who defined my childhood—

Anyone want to stowaway to Stratford for Thanksgiving?


Who would want King Lear as a leader,

A man who chooses allies and enemies poorly—

Malevolent daughters with venom veiled

By inflation of their lord’s ego

Over the honest voice of a daughter

“So young, my lord, and true,”

Whose word he takes for scorn,

For she claims he is mortal and not godly.

He bites the only hand that feeds him

In banishing her from his kingdom,

But he sees, with cavalry and elements against him,

“I am a very foolish fond old man,

Fourscore and upward, not an hour more or less,

And, to deal plainly,

I fear I am not in my perfect mind.”

Indeed he is less in his perfect mind

Than is the Fool, with his painted face

And court jester’s mannerisms,

Yet more truth in social commentary

Than in Lear’s Narcissus mirror—

If you think Ophelia plays the “Woe is me” card,

You should see this guy—

Banishing his kind daughter and having the gall to say

“I am a man more sinned against than sinning.”

Their reunion in her castle

Where a daughter takes task of a mother

To a fallen king, infantile in his senility,

Is nonetheless cause for rejoice—

Until Shakespeare decides the audience is too happy

With recent developments

And lets his characters begin their ride into the sunset

Only to step on a land mine on their way off.

Where thunder, rain and wind once sounded,

Silence follows Lear in entrance

With his daughter dead in his arms.

“Why should a dog, a horse, a rat have life,

And thou no breath at all?”

Shakespeare knew how to lure his audience eager

And have them depart weeping,

And I shall go to bed in awe and in sadness,

Awe at the production, stunning performances,

Grief at the tragedy of it all.

Damn it, Shakespeare, were you a masochist?

Tuesday, June 8, 2010

5/23/2010 – Day Six of England Tour: Four-Star Hostels are Princess Castles Compared to Three-Star Hostels

This old Abbey by the name of Lacock

Is where the first two Harry Potter films were shot.

What an honor to be at the site

Of where literary disfigurement took place—

Where miscast preteens masqueraded

As Rowling’s characters,

Clumsily rendered after the paper shredder

Tore up six hundred pages worth of novel

Into cheap imitation cinema.

But, to his credit, Daniel Radcliffe

Has since made a name for himself—

Naked on stage as the star of Equus,

Blinding horses and blind-sighting critics on Broadway.

Got to start somewhere, right?


The rule of proper coach etiquette is

Turn off your engine whilst stationary,

So says the signs at Warwick castle parking lot.

The rule of common courtesy is

Turn off the flash when taking pictures in the castle,

Though that makes for some blurry photos

Of swords and armor framing doorways

With skulls and antlers as the centerpiece

And replicas of knights in shining armor

On their armored horses,

Posed like the wood carvings of the battlefield

In medieval furniture on display—

You have your saints, your soldiers and your royals

And their thrones and their pedestals,

Intricacy of the keenest of woodcarvers.

With the flash turned off,

A photo emerges dark, with tourists silhouetted

Against the stained-glass window—

Artsy, I think, and stylistic,

Ominous indoors and luminous outdoors,

Clear skies and green trees in the background of darkness.

Let’s have a seat near this window

Where two mirrors on opposite walls face each other,

And I’ll take a picture of you taking my picture,

And you’ll take a picture of me taking your picture,

And the suit of armor in the background can be a curious bystander,

While no flash reflects off the mirrors—

Courtesy is a win-win situation.


These portraits of aristocratic noblemen

In feminine wigs and trailing robes

And pale noblewomen with rosy-cheeked somber faces

Are much more lifelike than the creepy wax figures

With dead eyes following our every move

And recorded voices conversing with the houseguest,

A young Winston Churchill.

Hey, I wanted to go to the Princess Castle,

But it’s only for children, sadly.


What have I learned?

Four-star hostels are better than three-star hostels,

For the cheaper towels and better laundry services,

Spacious rooms with panoramic windows,

Bathrooms with no spiders and toilet handles that stay on.

Finally, a good night’s sleep

And no more dirty clothes stinking up my luggage.

Saturday, June 5, 2010

5/22/2010 – Day Five of England Tour: So this is where the Wife of Bath hails from.

Never tell me Justin Bieber

Can carry a tune in a bucket—

Have him come to Bath

And see what he’s up against—

Hear the street performers soar

With voices like eagles,

Not the waddling pigeons

That flutter and beg for bread.

Dinner theater has never been better—

Pasta in an umbrella’s shade

With free concerts in the square,

Magicians and dancers and standing ovations—

Is that a homeless man?

He must have paid for lessons

At some point in his life,

For he is skilled at the recorder

And worth more than the coins

Tossed in his case like the wishing well

At the Roman City of Bath.


Bath’s Roman City

Has its share of performers—

A woman approaches me

In ancient robes and tall hair,

Black and curled, like mine—

“Your hair is lovely,” she says to me,

“Does your slave girl do it for you?

Hours she spent perfecting my locks—

A worthy servant, she is.”

Little does she know

I am my own slave girl

At the mercy of hair so dense

The only style permitted

Under its tyrannical regime

Is short and curly.


Just as Stonehenge is for the birds—

The crows, specifically

—The sacred pool of Bath,

Once thought to have healing powers,

Belongs to the ducks,

And the pigeons that bathe in its shallow ends.


Bath’s Roman City,

How you tempt me with your gift shop

And its lethal-looking souvenirs:

A wooden sword replica—

Try getting that through airport security!
I guess a dagger will have to do—

Smaller, less threatening, obviously a toy—

Though it’s poor compensation

For a sword enthusiast such as myself.

A mug may be an all-too common souvenir,

Sold at every gift shop under the sun,

But this one looks like pottery clay spun at the wheel,

With a replica relic in place of a logo—

Proof of where I’ve been

And fitting to a fancy spot of tea.


Italian for lunch, Italian for dinner—

Hopefully repetition will not breed contempt.

Friday, June 4, 2010

5/21/2010 – Day Four of England Tour: Stonehenge is for the Birds

Our next trek is to the stones

That belong to the crows and their nests—

And the journey there was just as fun

As the destination.

What do you do when your bus breaks down

In the middle of a highway?

Wave to passing cars, of course!

Happy waves with a sunny smile,

The princess wave with a Mona Lisa grin,

And the call for help in getting to Stonehenge,

Which involves throwing myself at the window in agony.

I get smiles, waves and weird looks,

But an actor knows the show must go on.

My public! They love me! They really love me!

(No, really, they do.)


What have I learned from paying admission for Stonehenge?

It doesn’t belong to the landowners

Or the tour guides—

Stonehenge is for the birds.

Humans wonder,

How did it get here?
Was it alien invaders, terrestrial and otherwise?

Is it a code? A prophecy of the apocalypse?

A forewarning of the current recession?

Or the Gulf oil spill? Who knows?

Meanwhile, the birds wonder what we’re squawking about.

It’s just home.

They fly, they hover, they land, they perch,

They enter their lairs through holes in the stone,

Build their nests, feed their young—

What’s so mysterious? they wonder.

It’s just home.

It doesn’t belong to conspiracy theorists

Who think some semblance of truth

Can stake their claim.

Stonehenge is for the birds.

We don’t know what it is, but they do—

It’s just home.


I want to make shirts that say

“Team Bronte” and “Team Austen,”

And I am firmly Team Bronte,

Primarily Charlotte, the mastermind of Jane Eyre,

For Jane Austen bores me,

And Lady Charlotte said so herself:

“Jane Austen is not a poetess,

Has no sentiment, has no eloquence.

Anything like warmth or enthusiasm,

Anything energetic, poignant, or heartfelt,

Is utterly out of place in commending these works;

She ruffles the reader by nothing vehement,

Disturbs him by nothing profound;

The passions are perfectly unknown to her.”

Indeed, I would rather read

Of madwomen in attics

And unconventional heroines—

Jane Eyre, who is not pretty,

Edward Rochester, who is not handsome,

Nor a morally sound prince on a white horse—

I’m on Team Bronte,

Though I will admit,

Jane Austen’s house is more interesting than her books,

If only for the history behind it—

Feather pens, donkey carriages,

A kitchen with a cauldron

And a desk with a creepy wax figure facing the window.

Turn it around to see Norman Bates’ mom,

Or, more specifically, her corpse.


Dinner is Italian tonight,

Then back we walk down the street

Up the hill and back to the hostel.

So this is what a hostel is—

Like a hotel, only dorm-like,

And much lesser sanitary conditions.

Three roommates, two bunk beds,

I can handle,

But three spiders in our bathroom?
A toilet that sounds like the Titanic sinking?

And towels cost a pound fifty?

Well, everything has a price tag.

5/20/2010 – Day Three of England Tour: Sights! Sounds! Books!

So what have I learned today

From this literary-themed tour

In the city where London Bridge is falling down

(Or so I thought in my nursery-rhyme days)?

Good writers make crappy husbands.

T.S. Eliot, Charles Dickens—

Is treating your wife badly a job requirement for these guys?

Can’t say I was disillusioned

For I didn’t hold them to a pedestal,

Though T.S. Eliot was quite the genius.

Genius always comes with a price.

But how eager I am

To see the building that inspired the Ministry of Truth

In George Orwell’s 1984—

DOWN WITH BIG BROTHER

DOWN WITH BIG BROTHER

No thoughtcrime here, sir, just passing on by.

We love Big Brother! God bless and… such.

To see it before me makes the book more real,

And all the more frightening.

“How many fingers do you see?”

I won’t be a statistic in your regime,

Nor will I fall to Big Brother’s knees.

But would that be preferable to living on Animal Farm?

There’s something to think about.


The British Museum is like any other—

Myriad paintings, innumerable relics,

Overload for discovery mode—

Where to: the Aztec exhibit

Or the ancient Greek statues?

Venetian masks? Egyptian busts?

So much to see, so few hours in the day.

So much to know, so much to take in—

I’ll take pictures of the signs

And the history they tell

To preserve this information

In my photo museum.


Then there’s the bookshop—

500 Things to Know About the Ancient World

Masterpieces of the British Museum

The Legendary Past: World of Myths

Two hardcover, one paperback

—If I can’t take the relics home with me,

This is the next best thing.


Taking a picture of the Rosetta Stone

Requires that I barricade my way through the crowd,

Shoving my way through so I can get my shot.

It’s a paparazzi target

Like a celebrity strolling through L.A.

Everyone wants a piece of it.

The gift shop sells items with its inscription—

Scarves, shirts, coasters, posters, water bottles—

“Let me get this for you,” the boyfriend says of a pretty scarf,

Black with white inscriptions.

“It’s thirty pounds,” I say. “I’ll take the water bottle, thank you,

White with black inscriptions.”


Later that evening, lo and behold,

A cabaret—literary cabaret, that is,

In a pub where restrooms are called water closets

And the customers must pay, then eat,

Which, once you think about it, makes perfect sense.

Lo and behold the poets on stage,

Tooting their horns, and rightfully so,

Luring us into buying their books

By wowing us all with their eloquence.


“What is a chop shop?”

So asks Tim Wells,

Testing our knowledge of British slang.

He’s man of many talents—

A skilled poet proving to be a formidable stand-up comic.

A teenage girl explains—

It’s a British term for shopping mall.

Tim Wells offers his own definition:

“If you’re a teenager, it’s heaven,

If you’re my age, it’s hell.”

His next question for us is

“What is dogging?”

The crowd murmurs

And it’s Sarah Stockbridge who answers,

Muse of Vivienne Westwood,

Model and actress turned author—

“Dogging is when couples have sex in cars

In broad daylight for the viewing pleasure of passerby.”

And so she paves the way

For the reading of the poem entitled “Dogging”—

Told you Tim Wells was funny.


The floor now belongs to Vivienne’s muse,

With a reading of her book, Hammer,

A Novel of the Victorian Underworld,

Of a vagabond thief

Whose pickpocket ways are her bread and butter,

Ironically named Grace,

Not so ironically surnamed Hammer.

Lady Stockbridge has caught our attention

Off the runway and the silver screen,

Proving she’s not all glitz and glamour,

Though that’s certainly part of her charm.


London is beautiful at night,

And I feel like the city lights

Light up just for us.

Wow, is that hokey or what?

Well, I can’t take it back now.

I’ll swallow my pride and take a stroll with you,

Significantly yours, and you significantly mine,

In the city where London Bridge falls down.

5/19/2010 – Day Two of England Tour: Hand-in-Hand with a Fellow Vagabond

I feel like a spoiled American

Upon discovering the Internet is a privilege, not a right.

One pound admission for fifteen minutes—

So this is how the rest of the world surfs the Web.


Let’s take this bus and see where it leads us,

Then take on the challenge of finding our way back.

London traffic is no less scary

On the upper hand of a double-decker

As vehicles come within a hair’s breathe

Of head-on collisions.

Below me I see stick shifts with right-hand steering wheels

And not a jay-walker in sight,

But the habit of driving under the influence

Of a cell phone at one’s ear

Is tragically universal.


Hackney Churchyard Gardens

Like a museum, only with pigeons—

Land given by the Knights Templar

In the name of Saint Augustine,

Where the parish buried its dead

In tombs made of stone.

The walled garden is Eden preserved

Where children swing and slide and play

As the Garden of Remembrance

Keeps Holocaust victims in our memories.

Interesting how, in London,

A garden commemorates victims in Czechoslovakia.

But three-hundred forty villagers of Lidice

Killed in a Nazi raid

Should know compassion beyond borders.

As I walk down Churchwell Path—

Named for a medicinal spring that emerged on this land—

Cat Stevens sings in my mind.

“Well, I think it’s fine, building jumbo planes

Or taking a ride on a cosmic plane—

Switch on summer from a slot machine,

Get what you want to if you want,

’Cause you can get anything.

I know we’ve come a long way,

We’re changing day to day,

But tell me, where do the children play?”


No qualms about losing our way

And drifting like vagabonds

From foot to bus to cab,

Heading upriver without a paddle,

Hand-in-hand with a significant other,

And our wonder is childlike

At undiscovered land—

The hotel welcomes us

And the food is warm,

“But tell me, where do the children play?”